Tuesday 4th April                                                                                               216 km

We're still waking up early. We enjoyed seeing the sun rise, but it soon went into cloud. The day was then mixed, going from cloud to sun, with the odd of spot of rain. This afternoon we saw an intriguing half (or should I say quarter) rainbow. It was warm all day and sometimes hot in the sun.
Monday 3rd April                                                                                                     261 km (with yesterday)

Again we were awake early. We didn't take a photo last night, as it was rather cloudy. This morning it was clouded mist! We had decided to go on a boat trip to the Bay of Islands. We had breakfast and packed up (the joys of a campervan – nothing to do!) and left about 8.30 and drove down into Russell and purchased our tickets.
Sunday, 2nd April

We awoke around 4.00 am and then dozed until 6 o'clock, when it was just beginning to get light. For the next hour or so we watched the changing light from our window. The huge plus on this van is the huge back window and windows at the side, so from our bed we can enjoy the beauty of outside. We watched as the mist came up and then slowly cleared. The beauty was indescribable and the reason for us enjoying this type of holiday.
Saturday 1st April

Auckland airport is rather reminiscent of Adelaide. It's the size of airport that I can cope with! We arrived at 6.00 am. It was still dark. By 6.30 we were through customs and wondering what to do, as we saw no one to collect us and had no phone number to ring. We bought a phone card and telephoned home and spoke to Emma. She asked us what the weather was like and at that stage we didn't know. Two seconds later we walked to the entrance and felt the warmth and humidity.


As usual, a very busy approach to our holiday, being the end of term for me – I even managed to get to the final performance of "The Pirates of Penzance" at school and we both attended the 'do' afterwards to say goodbye to Jane and Polly at school. Adrian had spent the last day chasing around and buying a new video camera, having had the other one seen to, but thinking (incorrectly) that it still wasn't working properly.
Thursday dawned bright and sunny, (after a frost) – two days earlier we have had a lot of snow! The morning disappeared fast and soon it was midday and Thomas was home to have a sandwich with us and then drive us to Reading where we were to catch the Railair link coach. The day had now become cloudy with a chilly wind as we stood waiting for the coach. We were glad of our new fleece jackets.

New Zealand North Island 1995

Thursday 30th – Friday 31st March 1995
When we arrived at Heathrow we were rather dismayed to find an enormously long queue for Air New Zealand – all the way here and back again. This was due to an earlier breakdown of the computer! We took our place in the queue and by the time we were through everything, there was no time to 'waste' looking in the shops – we had a quick look around "Past Times", then off to our plane, which after the confusion took off about an hour late at 6.00 pm
We went straight into cloud, and soon afterwards into darkness and almost the whole 24 hours of our flight was in darkness or so it seemed. We soon settled down to a drink and then dinner, then slept more than we expected and were soon approaching Los Angeles. Just beforehand we passed the amazing sight of Las Vegas – an oasis of lights in the darkness and the way I would like to remember it. Our 'travelling companion' had been a very pleasant middle aged lady, born in Scotland but at present living in Germany with her American husband. She was returning to Los Angeles for the funeral of her aged grandmother in law. At Los Angeles we had an hour so to spend in the exciting transit lounge along with many others. The local time was 7.00 pm. To us it was now 3.00 in the morning. We had been served breakfast before leaving the plane – strange at 2.00 am! We were glad to be able to get a free cold drink while waiting.
Soon we we were back on the plane for the never ending night. I watched a rather superficial film called "Muriel's Wedding" while Adrian slept. He had watched a couple of films on the previous flight, including a Thirties black and white version of "Little women". Our seats were in the worst possible place for the screen, being level with one screen and a great distance from the other one and unable to see it over the seats in front.
Time did drag for the last few hours, particularly not being able to move around. Our feet were incredibly swollen – when I looked at my ankles later, the ankle bone looked like a red mosquito bite slightly protruding from swelling! The veins in my hands were enlarged too and my palm, at the base of my thumb, had turned blue.
Breakfast was very welcome, although there was a slight disaster with the carton of maple syrup which we didn't use and which got squashed and leaked out over a lot of things later.
Having crossed the dateline we found that it was now in fact Saturday, so I shall continue today as the 1st April.
At Reading Station
We found out later that it had rained heavily for two days, but for now it felt lovely. We look out to tropical vegetation and lots of the "upside down" trees which he first noticed in Portugal (Norfo;lk Island pines).
Next to the entrance was a McDonald's – although I fancied a Cup of coffee, I wasn't starting my holiday in New Zealand there! We walked towards the arrivals area and found another small cafe – not a lot better, but I enjoyed my coffee!
Still only 7.00 am, we wandered outside, wondering what to do. We decided to ring Maui to find out what we were supposed to do – the person Adrian got through was the representative just inside the airport, in an area we had missed as it had a no entry sign. It was 7.15 and the courtesy coach had just left, the next was 7.45. At least now we knew what to do and after picking up dozens of leaflets from the tourist information, went and waited in the warmth outside.
We were taken the short distance to Leisureport, where we were duly linked up with "our" van. In fact, it wasn't the one we had booked, but another, with a special offer – for $10 a day more, this one had a loo and shower. We said yes and were shown over the van. We loaded up our luggage and were off.
Adrian at Auckland Airport

First stop was to buy some food. Supermarkets aren't quite the thing they are in England or France. Fruit and veggie shops everywhere. We stopped at the nearest "store" and bought enough food to start us off. Certain things – like coffee – seemed expensive and there wasn't a great deal of selection. We set off northwards. The scenery was wonderful, but the road busier here than I had expected. Signposting was very bad – no advanced signs and the maps we had didn't help and we had no idea of the scale.

We seemed to do a bit of a tour going nowhere, but it was pretty anyway. We stopped and bought some rolls and buns for lunch and ate these at a picnic site which reminded us of being in Australia near Buderim, looking out over lush vegetation.

After Helensville we continued north to Wellsford and from here down to the coast at Mangawhai. The similarity of place names was another difficulty we had to cope with, but when we arrived at the "Hideaway" site all our problems vanished! At first the site made us think of the golf course one on Vancouver Island but the lady here was certainly more pleasant – in fact everyone has been very nice. As we went to "pitch" our van and were wondering about the length of our cable for electricity, a man (presumably the owner of the site), called over, "can I help" and suggested we stayed by the water and he'd fetch a longer cable. It was so beautiful looking out across a narrow stretch of water to green trees and hills beyond, that we decided to go for a walk in the warm sunshine. It was now about 4 o'clock.

We're off in our campervan
The sand/mud was very splodgy underfoot – a mud bath must be good for the feet! Memories again – this was a bit like the Teign Estuary. We walked quite a distance, but the tide was coming in and we thought we had a better return. Back at the campsite a group of campers were sitting around and called out for us to join them. We probably would have done, but were now so weary, that we had a shower and then tried to "organise" the van, which looked like a bomb had dropped, as we had dumped our luggage and food and not found homes for anything. In fact finding a home for things proved difficult, as we discover how little space there actually was and my suitcase wouldn't fit anywhere – something I had thought of that home, but we didn't think would be a problem. We sorted as much as we could and then, too tired even to eat, collapsed into bed!
On the beach at Mangawhai
 
Having not turned the gas on from outside, I managed to make a cup of tea using the microwave. The van is minimally equipped – just 2 cups, glasses, knives, forks, spoons etc – nothing extra at all and nothing like hooks for hanging. We decided that it must actually be new, although the mileometer says otherwise. Elsewhere we will make a list of good / bad ideas for future reference.
I cooked breakfast of bacon and eggs (one thing we will really miss in the van is that there is no toaster or grill or oven), then we finished our tea / coffee sitting beside the water
Early morning at Mangawhai Campsite
We stopped again a bit further north at Langs Beach, where again we had a walk and paddle.
 
. The tide was now right in and we had a pleasant swim in the still water, followed by a shower. We had had a lovely stop for our first night.
We left the site drove and down to the surfing beach at Mangawhai Head, where we had a lovely walk along the beach in the sunshine. Being Sunday, there were quite a few families enjoying the beach.

Rosie by the water after breakfast
At Mangawhai Head
The sky was beginning to look a bit erratic and at one point later we had a downpour for about one minute. By the state of the road in many places, we could imagine what it was like the couple of days before we arrived, as there was much evidence of landslides, and sand / soil covered the road in many places.
Just before Whangarei we came to a fairly large supermarket which was open (on a Sunday) so we were able to buy many of the things which we needed, including disposable plates and bowls at a very reasonable prices and 4 large glasses for £1. We drove through Whangarei – we were now late for lunch and stopped soon afterwards at Whangarei Falls and ate our lunch there before viewing the falls.
Adrian at Langs Beach
On again northwards, but we fairly soon took a road right – very quiet and pleasant with no other traffic. The road was unsurfaced for much of the way through Russell Forest, with many Kauri pines and eventually to Russell. Here we stopped at "Russell Holiday Park"– the names here don't have the same meaning as they would at home!
I came over incredibly tired, so Adrian cooked supper of steak, potatoes and peas. After this I woke up a bit and being a lovely evening we decided to walk down into Russell.
Whangareii Falls
It certainly is a delightful place. It is one of the earliest places to be settled by Europeans and in the past had a reputation as a "hell hole", where brawls, drunkenness, and debauchery were the order of the day. Now it is just a delightful place beside the water. We returned early for bed.
Rosie with a datura plant  at Russell,
The rest of the ship seemed almost exclusively "saga" holidays from Germany with Americans, New Zealanders and Japanese. The Germans were noticeable by their lack of politeness and friendliness! On our return stopped at Urupukapuka Island. This was a delightful spot and we enjoyed first tea /coffee with a "hole in the rock" muffin and a "Lamington", sitting by the shore. We only had just over an hour here, but long enough to walk up to a "lookout" and beyond. It was more beautiful than I can put into words – islands everywhere and an azure sea – a bit like the west coast of Scotland but warmer.
We had parked initially in the bay for "Russell Mini Tours" and the lady driver of the mini tours van told us so, very nicely, as we have found that most New Zealanders do! With our 10% discount, it came to NZ$88 for 2 (£30). We waited at the end of the jetty for the catamaran. It had loaded up at Paihai and there was very little room for the 4 of us who embarked at Russell. The boat was on 3 levels with indoor and outdoor seating. We tried indoors, but found it too claustrophobic and bouncy and spent most of the time sitting at the rear of the ship.
We passed several of the islands (about 150 altogether in the Bay of Islands). The Captain explained some of the history, but it was difficult to hear. The "big thing" about this trip, was going through the "hole in the rock" – a sort of Durdle Door set at the end of the many islands. The captain hummed and hahed, but we did go through it – it wasn't madly exciting, but we should have many photos! It had been pretty rough.

Adrian by the camper at Russell

Morning Glories at Russell
The' hole in the rock' - it wasn't that exciting going through but it was a big boat and a small hole!
The day had been pretty mixed, but was now warm and sunny for our return trip to Russell. The water was azure blue, and we saw dolphins swimming. It was now approaching 1 o'clock. We sorted out some money at the bank and then bought a filled "pitta bread" for lunch, which we enjoyed sitting on "The Strand" at the edge of the water. We were joined by numerous birds who wanted to share our lunch! Afterwards we visited the small, but packed with artefacts, museum – even Charles Darwin got in on the act and visited the local church! This area is steeped in early New Zealand history and is quite delightful and very attractive. What did Captain Cook think of it all, we wonder. Did he appreciate beauty, or just want to grab for land for England?
It was about 2.30 when we finally left Russell – a place which will keep a place in our hearts and memories. After a short distance we came to the ferry northwards – the coast here is very indented. We came to Paihia – a very upmarket town full of hotels but still attractive to drive to and then to Waitangi where we saw the treaty house where in 1840 the treaty was signed between the Maori and the British.
On northwards through pretty country, but the effects of the travel pills we took for the boat trip took their effect and we became extremely dozy and had to stop for a while. We then looked for a campsite and followed the unmade road to Taupo for about 10 miles! At one point we had to wait a while – they were upgrading the road and had blocked it with roadworks. When we finally got to Taupo, we found a not unpleasant site, but not on the beach and with not a lot to offer! The lady was pleasant enough and there was no turning back now – it was 5.30 (it gets dark soon after at 6 o'clock – a big disadvantage). We parked the van and walked to the nearby cove before returning for showers and to cook supper. We are the only people here except for two hikers – from England as we discovered when we gave them a lift the next day! wrote our first postcards before we collapsed asleep again.
On Urupukapuka Island.
We sopped up the atmosphere for some minutes before reluctantly leaving and retracing the 10 miles of unmade road back to the main road. This is where we picked up the campers / hitch hikers and dropped them at Mangonui, a very attractive waterside town and a past port for the Kauri trade. The Kauri tree dominates today's itinerary.
We stopped just afterwards at Coopers Beach, an idyllic spot where numerous birds were "lined up" on the sandy beach.
We left sometime after 8 o'clock and drove down to the beach, which looked quite beautiful. We wondered why we hadn't enthused over it more last night.
Adrian having breakfast in the camper
At Taupo Beach
We stopped again at Taipa, where the primary school was beside the sea and we wondered if the children enjoyed it.
We had decided not to make any of the "Ninety Mile Beach" trips, but did want to have a glimpse of the beach. After a slight detour, we did manage to get to the southern end of the beach. It was quite magnificent and made the more enjoyable as it was really warm and sunny. We paddled in the sea and found the pull of the waves really strong. Not wanting to leave, I made some tea / coffee which we enjoyed sitting in the sand dunes overlooking the beach.
Coopers Beach
We met up with a German couple who had been on the boat trip with us yesterday. They were from Munich and quite chatty. We realised afterwards that they thought we were from New Zealand, but then we thought that they were with the party of Germans yesterday.
We thought that we had better get going again, but just down the road came to a roadside "shop" selling gifts made from ancient Kauri wood. There were some wonderful tables etc. to see and also smaller things like bowls, but very expensive. We did buy a pot stand made of different strips of named of wood.
A bit further on at Awanui, we went into a small store and bought butter, milk and rolls and also posted our cards. The butter was "Pam's butter" and we have been very much enjoying the "Pam's" purchases which we got on Sunday – the disposable plates, bowls and mugs were very reasonable and are of excellent quality.
Soon after Kaitaia we stopped for lunch at a delightful spot in the Raetea Forest. We had turned just off the road and found a stream beside an area of grass, with woods behind. It was windy but warm and we sat at a rustic picnic table in this idyllic haven, once again having to tear ourselves away.
Rosie and a Yucca plant on the southern end of Ninety Mile beach
We enjoyed seeing the Pampas grass again today, fringing the road with its plumes of various shades of white, green and pink, looking like giant versions of grasses I so enjoyed in Australia.
At Mangamuka Bridge, we turned off onto a smaller road which took us to a ferry at Kohukohu to Rawene across a large inlet of  water which reaches the sea at Hokianga Harbour. This was a very pretty area with huge hills of sand.
In the Raetea Forest.
We continued south to the Waipoua Forest, an area renowned for its Kauri trees and we stopped to view the largest living Kauri tree – possibly 2000 years old! The road through here was often unsurfaced, but there were also frequent roadworks – at one we had to wait about half an hour for them to clear the road.
On the Rawene Ferry
It was now getting quite late and campsites were rather known by their absence, but we did find one at the Forest Visitors Centre – devoid of people and unfortunately with nowhere to empty our chemical loo, which is full and in need of emptying! We had been playing our "rainforest" tape in the van, but we didn't need it tonight – the natural sounds of the forest sounded just like it.
A Kauri tree in the Waipoua forest
Wednesday 5th April                                                                                                  270km

Awoke to the rainforest sounds and looked out to an almost African sky beyond the pine trees. The clouds in the sky were tinged pink and there was a part rainbow in the sky.
Later we saw more rainbows – one very flat in a valley. We watched some brightly coloured parrots and listen to the carroling of the magpies – we had forgotten their name (black and white, but totally different from our magpies). We found out from the warden – a strange lady who we didn't really take to. Soon after leaving, we stopped at the neighbouring visitors centre and saw lots about the Kauri trees.
We drove south and were soon out of the Kauri forest and into far more open, pretty, hilly country. At Dargaville we drove up a hill to see the maritime museum, where there was somewhere to empty the chemical loo. We thought we'd stop here and make some tea/coffee to enjoy on the adjacent picnic table, but heavy rain showers prevented us from doing this and we had to resort to sitting inside with the last of our Pam's chocolate muesli bars (very good!). We drove into Dargaville in heavy rain and more torrential showers typified the day, but with warm sunshine in between.
We continued south and stopped at Matakohe and visited the superb Kauri Museum there – so much to see that we did a "quick tour". A large party of school children was also visiting and we were pleased to see that children are children everywhere! They could have been English except that many were barefooted.
Early morning in the campsite
A bottlebrush bush
We ate an enjoyable lunch (pie and cake) in the tea shop opposite, sitting overlooking pretty country. There had been a heavy shower while we were in the museum.
We joined Highway 1 southwards, only for a few kilometres, retracing our outward journey. Through Wellsford and Warkworth (where we did a small shop) then down towards Auckland.
We had hit the Auckland rush hour and it was very busy. We intended visiting Jeff's parents (he works with Adrian). After some difficulties we located the right area and then Adrian telephoned them. We soon found their house and then spent the evening with them. They, like their children, were widely travelled. After a short trip out by car, Peter cooked us an excellent meal, which we enjoyed with Cloudy Bay wine. After much chatting we were ready to retire to our campervan parked outside for the night.
A stationary steam engine at the museum and Rosie enjoying lunch at the tea rooms opposite
Thursday 6th April                                                                                                          198km

Again awake early. We wrote a few postcards before saying goodbye to Betty at 7.30 – she was going into Auckland to work voluntarily in the Magistrates Court. She had just time to show us round the garden first – it was in the "clearing up for autumn" stage. There were lots of orchid plants and many plants which we would have as house plants. In the front was a Macadamia tree.
While Peter drove Betty to the bus, we telephoned Thomas. It was great to have a chat "funny that it sounds as if you're right next door when you're really half a world away". He seemed to be doing fine and was off to Wales this weekend.
We had a pleasant, leisurely breakfast with Peter, then he drove us around for a couple of hours, taking us to the summit of three different hills, from each of which we had great views of Auckland spreading for 360°, changing scene of land and sea. The first hill was an extinct volcano. One was called "One Tree Hill", with - yes – one tree on the top, which someone had recently tried to chop down so was now secured behind a fence and with supports. At the third hill we just missed three coachloads of tourists!
The camper outside the Leddra's house
Adrian with Peter & Betty Leddra
We got involved with the cycling part of a triathlon near a place called Clevedon – made the going difficult for a while.
We stopped for morning coffee at a Swiss restaurant and all enjoyed a cake – mine a walnut tart. We also bought some for lunch and a French loaf.
Adrian & Peter on 'One Tree' hill
Peter added lots of useful information as we drove around. We drove past "St Helier" which looked just like Balmoral Beach in Sydney.
Back at their house, we had a cool drink and then left with Peter driving in front, to put us on the right road. We now headed for the Coromandel peninsular. It was nearly midday. The morning had been warm and mostly sunny. The day continued like this – hot when the sun was out, but often cloudy.
We were following the coast all the way round. It was a very scenic. We stopped for lunch beside the sea, looking across the Firth of Thames to the Coromandel Peninsula, reminding us of looking across the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland, but also looking like the west coast of Scotland.
After this, the land became very flat, until we reached Thames, at the southern end of the Coromandel. The drive up the Western side was very attractive, wooded hills coming down to the beach, separated by our road. At Tapu we took a road across the middle, through more Kauri trees. The road was unsurfaced and winding and we got into the clouds. We descended on the eastern side of the peninsula and made our way to Hot Water Beach, where there was a campsite, but also there were hot springs on the beach. The location was spectacular and beautiful – a bit 'west coast of Vancouver Island'ish. After parking, we walked onto the gorgeous sandy beach and sat in one of the "holes" dug by someone else. It was a strange sensation – sitting in the dusk (it was 6.00 pm) with a new moon above, a sand "wall" around us and feeling as though we were in a warm bath, the sea just inches away, lapping at us. There was a strange camaraderie amongst the people there. We  alternated our "bath" with a splash in the rough waves – an effect a bit like a sauna.
We came back and showered to wash off the sand and hope to repeat the experience in the morning, as it only "works" near low tide.
Peter & Rosie at the 'Swiss Cafe'
Friday 7th April                                                                                                               324km

The morning was disappointingly grey, but nevertheless we made our way to the beach around 7.00 am. A young German chap from Aachen was the only other person there. He had dug himself a hole. We tried several places (we had brought a long spade from beside the shop), but couldn't get it right and the tide seemed to be advancing fast. In the end, we used the German's as he was leaving. It was great, until a heavy downpour came over! We had a quick splash in the large waves in the sea before we left. The rain had soaked our towels and clothes and it rained on us again before we got back to the van.
We had showers to wash off the sand and were ready for our fried bacon breakfast.
We left much later than usual – about 10.30. The grey had become rain and it rained all day, often torrentially, which was a shame as it made visibility poor. The eastern side of Coramandel would appear to have been lovely if we could have seen it. After Waihi we followed along beside a river, where we stopped to eat lunch (in the van). Soon after this we came to a wonderful gorge – rather Austrian in character. It was good that we enjoyed it, as we realised that we had come the wrong way (good signposting again) and had to go back to Waihi and take the road to Tauranga. Soon after here I phoned Jim Pyke and got directions to visit him and his wife Jan in Opotoki (Jim was the brother of Rosie's best friend at school - Janet). We were travelling now through a fruit growing area, particularly kiwi fruit. In better weather we might have stopped.
We drove along the coast through Wakatane to Ohope and near there stopped by the beach which was very atmospheric as it had stopped raining briefly and everywhere was damp, with a white mist over the sand.
Hotwater beach
Banksia at Hotwater beach
Adrian digging to no avail on Hotwater beach
Rosie had the best idea - using the German's hot pool after he left!
We followed the road around to Opotoki and tried to follow Jim's directions and more by good luck than judgement, found ourselves outside the RSA Club (Returned and  Service's Club -like our British Legion) where he and Jan were working. We went inside – it was like a British Legion club. Jim and Jan were serving food in the kitchen andafter a drink or two we enjoyed some excellent fish and chips and then spent a convivial evening with Jan and Jim (between working) and three friends – Dave and Liz, originally from Buxton Derby, and John – a likeable, bubbly cockney who left England in 1959 and still had an accent as strong as ever. He was a market gardener and was now partly employed in teaching Maoris agriculture! He was a very open, warm, jolly person. Dave was softly spoken and gentle, a bit like John Noakes. Liz was chatty and quite outgoing and reminded me of Mary Pinder.
Yukka at Waiotahi Beach near Opotoki
Conversation was easy and we spent a convivial evening. It was interesting to hear what things people missed about England (families and history) and to find out what it was like living in New Zealand. At 9 o'clock everybody stood for "lest we forget", which is read each evening. Soon after this we went back to Jim and Jan's house and chatted for a while and looked at photos before retiring to the van at about 11 o'clock.
At the RSA Club Opotoki, with John, Jan, Dave, Liz, Jim & Adrian
Saturday 8th April                                                                                                139km

A good sleep, although it appeared to rain all night and was still raining in the morning. Jim knocked on the door, all done up in his oilskins, on his way to the shop on his bike. We went inside and chatted over tea/coffee and some time later, after a phone call to John's wife Nyree, John arrived to take us to his "hydroponic watercress beds" as promised. He had apparently stayed late at the club last night, but still seemed cheery. He is one of those people that we will cherish having met – a genuine cockney with such an infectious personality. You couldn't imagine him ever having a grudge. His wife was being ordained next week. When I asked which denomination, he said "Christian, Oh nothing awful. She sees me as her last challenge". He was dressed in a grubby, baggy T-shirt and shorts. No shoes, but no one else was wearing shoes. Jim said they told his mum it was so they could grip harder in the earthquakes! We got into the front of John's truck with him and off we went to see the watercress beds – situated on someone's farmland, where kiwi fruit and avocados were being grown. John gave us a large bunch of watercress and lots of avocados which he picked up from the ground. The trees looked rather like rhododendron bushes. The kiwis were prolific but not quite ready for harvesting. He explained to us about his watercress growing with a manner fit for any "Gardeners World". Self-taught, but very knowledgeable, with a pleasant way of imparting that knowledge.
 
He drove us back via the beach, which looked very wild today. The poor visibility prevented us from seeing volcanic White Island out to sea. We drove past his patch of land to Jim and Jan's, then about 11.30 we left after saying our goodbyes. It had been a valuable and enjoyable time.
John tending his 'hydroponic watercress'
Avocados
Kiwis
We stopped on the outskirts of Opotoki at "New World" and filled up with shopping. There was a novel idea of helping yourself to a free cup of coffee. The idea was good, but not the coffee!
Having had little breakfast, we were ready for lunch and stopped by the wild waves of Waiotahi Beach to the west of Opotoki. The waves lapped almost up to the van.
We were retracing our steps for a short distance before heading for Rotorua. Just after Awakeri the road unexpectedly ran along the railway track for a short distance, which was rather disconcerting! Luckily no trains!
Soon we saw Mt. Edgecumbe, with a collar of mist and soon afterwards the first of the lakes – Lake Rotorua. Dave had tried last night to describe the road to Rotorua, with the lakes coming into view. The rain seemed at last to be stopping and a watery sun shone down on to the water. We passed Lake Rotoeha and Lake Rotoiti and then came to Hells Gate. This was an area of thermal activity. We had already seen steam rising in various places and smelt the sulphur ("like fart's" John had said last night, "someone else's farts"). Hells Gate was quite an amazing place – one of the wonders of the world you might say. The leaflets will explain. It felt a bit like walking on a foreign planet and a bit scary to think of all that boiling water bubbling up right beside you. Definitely eerie, but enjoyable. It was quite chilly, except when warm gas enveloped you.
Jan, Jim & Rosie as we said goodbye
An aunt, Jim, his Mum and Rosie in 1961
Rosie and her best friend Janet (Pykey) in 1961
We now headed into Rotorua and the campsite, where we settled ourselves in and then had a quick swim in the pool – strange in the dark – followed by a sit in one of the beautifully warm thermal pools – this was what the doctor ordered!.
Hells Gate Thermals
Feeling wonderfully warm and refreshed, we returned to the van and slowly cooked supper and also did some washing in one of the machines. This site is excellently equipped, with first-class kitchens for those needing them
Adrian by the boiling mud in the campsite and Rosie in the hot pool
Sunday 9th April                                                                                                             125km

We awoke to another grey day, but 7.30 am saw us having a swim in the pool, followed by a soak in the thermal baths. We walked over to see the "boiling mud" in the campsite, then came back to the van for breakfast.
We left and drove down through Rotorua Town – a pleasant enough town – very quiet on a Sunday morning and ended up at the lake, where we stopped briefly.
We drove back to the Maori centre at Whakarewarewa, arriving at 10.15. We were told that part of the complex was closed – due we found out later, to a protest of some sort – so the 12.15 Maori concert was included in the price. We didn't think that we would still be around at 12.15, but the site was very large – we just made it back in time for the concert. The area was full of "thermal activity" – geysers, boiling mud, spouting steam – all pretty impressive.
Black swans on Lake Rotorua
At one end was a Maori village – many of the gardens had steam emitting from them. We saw a dozy kiwi in the kiwi house. The "concert" was enjoyable, but was pretty packed, as other people were obviously also given free tickets. Also the concert was being filmed, so the camera man was there with all his gear.
Thermal activity at Whakarewarewa
As we left, it had begun to rain – up until then it had been very overcast. The rain got heavier and continued all afternoon. We had intended stopping at Waimangu – a volcanic valley – and Waiotapu, another thermal area. We stopped at both, but the torrential rain made visiting them impossible. We continued south towards Taupo, stopping at Wairakei, a large park area where we viewed the Huka Falls – the Huka village – a reconstructed Pioneer Village – was unfortunately closed.
Lady making grass skirts at Maori centre at Whakarewarewa,
Maori concert at at Whakarewarewa
We got to the "Craters of the Moon" – a free area of great thermal activity. It looked a bit like a rubbish tip being burned – but it was steam, not smoke, and came from inside the earth. It was very bleak and spooky and actually covered a very large area.
It was now beginning to get dark. We continued to Taupo and eventually found the campsite – not very exciting and all pretty damp with more rain. We had stopped before Taupo at the Prawn Farm and bought some expensive large prawns. We now enjoyed these as a prelude to our supper.
Huka Falls
Craters of the Moon
Monday 10th April                                                                                                        175km

When we awoke around 7.00 am it was to a clear blue sky! There was heavy condensation on the windows which dripped down onto the bed when we wiped it off! We made our way to the "spa pool" and immersed ourselves in the steaming water. Another English lady arrived and took our photo for us.
We drove into Taupo and got more money from the bank, bought stamps and posted more cards and bought some bread and cakes. It was about 10.00 AM when we left, taking the road to Napier. At first it was through rather English looking countryside, with virtually no habitation. Later we came to heavily forested steep hilly country, crossed by fast flowing rivers. We stopped to view the Waipunga Falls and made a tea/coffee stop here. Later we came to a gem – a garden open to the public, called Cotswold. This was quite idyllic – a real haven of beauty. The beautiful warm sunshine after days of rain helped. It still seemed strange to see maples changing colour for autumn, rather than coming out for spring.
In the spa pool at Taupo
By the time we had looked around the gardens it was time for lunch, which we enjoyed using the picnic table we had parked beside. The many flying nasties prevented it from being just perfect. In the adjacent field were a large herd of deer, plus other animals. We continued towards the coast, passing the summit at 2460 feet. The part just before Napier was called Eskdale. We drove through Napier and stopped briefly by its dark stony beach. Napier had been almost totally destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, so was rebuilt in the 30's. There was a glorious long drive along the front, edged on each side by Norfolk pines. We carried on towards Clifton, where there was a campsite at the end of the road! We were situated right on the beach – pebbly, but sand further out. A few miles along the bay from there is Cape Kidnappers, where there is the only mainland colony of gannets in the world. You can walk there and back along the beach when the tide is right, but it takes five hours there and back. There are also trips by tractor along the beach but we didn't see any evidence of anything. We did see lots of birds flying in the right direction and we imagined they might be gannets. There was also a black curlew looking bird with red legs and a long red beak.
We pitched right on the front of this almost deserted site. There was a "balcony" in front – a wooden structure with a rickety table and posts with wires attached, where with great glee I hung our damp towels to blow in the wind.
Waipunga Falls
Cotswold Gardens
We went for a short walk along the beach beneath the gigantic sandy cliffs, which didn't look too stable. We came back and enjoyed a beer on our "balcony" as the sun set, making glorious pinks and blues across the sea.
The beach and our spot at Clifton
We then moved inside to continue enjoying the glorious view across Hawke Bay. After supper we had another walk along the beach.
Tuesday 11th April                                                                                                     340km
I started the day with a quick swim in the sea. The sun was rising, but clouds came too and the day ended very differently! I was able to air the bedding before we left. We stopped a short distance along the bay at Te Awanga to view the pleasant campsite there. We had passed a house with a tiny "turnip" caravan outside, plus several vehicles including a converted pick up truck. We stopped to have a look and got talking to the couple in the next-door house – a pleasant gentleman and an attractive auburn haired girl from America. Te Awanga was a pleasant "village" with attractive houses and pretty gardens. We noticed here and elsewhere, that certain shrubs were laden with berries.
We drove towards Hastings and Havelock North. We had been told to drive up Te Mata (399 m) to view the surrounding land. We hadn't realised that we would be driving up near vertical pinnacles to a spot, where apparently hang gliders take off from. From the top we could see down to the coast and the hills beyond which we camped. There were good views in all directions. There were walks in this area, but "not for me" with my fear of heights!
Breakfast on the beach at Clifton
We drove back down to Havelock, where we stopped to do some shopping – first two ice creams from a rather unfriendly fellow. Mine was 'hokey-pokey' ice cream. Havelock was a very affluent "village" with many modern small shops.
We joined the road south towards the place with the interesting name Dannevirke. We stopped for lunch by turning off onto a side road and parking beside a deep sided stream. We crossed the central mountain range via the Manawatu Gorge – a very dramatic and long gorge, where the road clung to the side and there wasn't much space for mistakes!
The hang gliding launch platform on Te Mata, Havelock North
The view from Te Mata
We then continued on the western side of North Island, past Levin to Otaki. We had thought that we might camp on the coast here, but neither sites were on the beach. The area was very residential, and the weather was deteriorating! The few drops of rain became torrential. We had been looking out for the wine bar owned by the father of Meredith, who I know from Priors Court. We eventually found it and managed to cross the continuous stream of traffic. It turned out that Meredith's father wasn't there, but we had quite a chat to his partner, from Edinburgh. He said that this was their first day of rain! After leaving, the rain became a deluge, making driving and visibility very difficult, but there was nowhere to stop. We continued and so did the rain – all evening!
We turned off once at Waikanae beach, to look for a site, but just got hopelessly lost in the nicely residential area. We finally stopped at Paekakariki, having played games with the train at level crossings. The road here was very busy with continual traffic, presumably coming from Wellington.
We got settled into our van, while the rain continued outside – we were pleased not to be in a tent!
Pampas everywhere across the hills
We had to take a picture of 'Toms Bend'
Wednesday 12th April                                                                                                  129km

We were disappointed to wake up to yet more rain! It was a good excuse for our first lie in, while I read all about Wellington. By the time we got up to have showers/hair wash, the rain had stopped and blue sky was coming. We decided that this was the morning to cook pancakes, which we ate with enthusiasm. It was pleasant not to be rushing anywhere, as we are catching the 5.30 ferry from Wellington today to South Island. We shall be sorry to leave North Island – there is still plenty left to see.
We walked out from the site on to the adjacent beach. We thought this a lovely setting for a site – one we would have enjoyed when the children were small. The site itself was attractive and well kept, with a little stream running through in a "dell", and a nice children's play area. The site is on the edge of Queen Elizabeth Park – a natural area with no building in it. We crossed a grassy parkland area with more children's adventure playground items and then came to the beach of fine sand, but littered with shells and pieces of pumice. The waves came rushing in. Beyond was the bird sanctuary of Kapiti Island. Behind us were barren steep green hills – we couldn't see them in the rain last night. There was no one else about. It was warm and sunny and quite heavenly! We paddled and the water felt warm.
We eventually tore ourselves away from this wild haven and started the drive into Wellington.
The habitation around Wellington spread a long way and the roads were busier than we expected. The whole setting is very attractive. On arrival at Wellington we drove to the ferry point to pay for our tickets. We then drove round and round Wellington hoping to park so that we could use the cable car. This proved impossible – all roadside parking spaces were taken or were residential only and our vehicle was too high for a covered car park. Instead we drove up Mount Victoria, driving up past many houses perched on the steep sides, with garages built out on stilts. From the top we could look down on to Wellington and the surrounding bay – quite a magnificent sight. I cooked scrambled egg for lunch and while eating it we looked out and saw it sunny across the bay – it had become cloudy and chilly in Wellington. This decided us on driving around the bay, which was several miles. At first we were on busy roads and through industrial areas, but then we came to an uncrowded area around a town surprisingly called Eastbourne. We stopped and looked across to Wellington and saw a ship with billowed sail, sailing out across the bay. We stopped again by the beach. We could see evidence of previous fires on the forested slopes behind. At the end of the road, the track went on for walkers/cyclists only, but the shortest walk was an hour and we didn't have that. We had a short walk on the beach in the pleasant sunshine, looking across the magnificent bay. On the beach we had seen fennel growing, also alyssum and some small bright purple daisies. There were also enormous mussels – about the size of my foot.
Around Paekakariki
We then got back into the van and returned to the car ferry point, arriving about 4.15.
Wellington seemed a very affluent city, with fine houses, many older ones restored beautifully.
We were amused while waiting to embark to see container lorries driven off by funny little trucks, which fitted under them, the driver being knee-high off the ground.
Rosie's foot and a green lipped mussell
The three hour crossing passed very quickly. The boat was quite empty. We watched the coastline as we sailed out of Wellington and were annoyed that it was dark soon afterwards, so we didn't see the wonderful coast of Picton. We had something to eat on the boat and arrived at Picton at 8.30, soon finding our way to the site for the night.
A very small lorry under the trailer